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How to Install Laminate Flooring

Installing laminate flooring is an ideal flooring project for DIYers of any experience. With the right tools and set of instructions, you can easily install laminate flooring in a single day.

Tools & Materials

  • Miter SawTable Saw
  • Tape Measure
  • Retractable Knife
  • Pencil
  • Safety Glasses
  • Dust Mask
  • Knee Pads
  • Hammer
  • Flooring Installation Kit (spacers, knock block and pull bar)
  • Laminate floor boards
  • Underlayment*
  • Vapour Barrier*

A Few Things to Consider:

Underlayment

It’s recommended that you lay an underlayment between the subfloor and the floorboards to improve acoustics and provide more comfort underfoot. The grip of the underlayment also helps hold the laminate flooring in place after installation is complete.

Vapor Barrier

If you’re installing over concrete, below grade, or in a room with high humidity or moisture, a vapor barrier is required. Moisture barriers prevent any moisture in the concrete subfloor from penetrating your new flooring.

Acclimate Your Floor Boards

Place your laminate floorboards in their unopened packages in the room you’ll be installing them, and let them acclimate for at least 72 hours before you install laminate flooring. This allows your floors to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the room, and reduces the likelihood of your floors swelling, shrinking, and warping.

Read the Manufacturer Instructions

As with any home improvement project, ensure you read the instructions that come with your flooring materials thoroughly before beginning your installation.


STEP 1 – HOW TO PREP YOUR SUBFLOOR

For best results, install laminate flooring over a wood or concrete subfloor. Before you begin your installation, it’s important to ensure that your subfloor is clean, solid, and flat. So, before you start laying your floor be sure to:

  • Remove any existing flooring
  • Remove moldings
  • Thoroughly vacuum the subfloor and rid it of all debris
  • Ensure the subfloor is level (with straight edge or laser level)

PRO TIP: your subfloor should have no more than a ¼” height difference up or down within an 8 foot span. If the floor needs levelling, you can apply a self-levelling thinset mortar to fill in the sub floor’s low spots (available at most home improvement stores).

Next, lay your moisture barrier flat to the subfloor, and ensure that the pieces overlap, and are held together using duct tape.

Finally, roll out the underlayment across your subfloor.


STEP 2 – HOW TO PREP THE DOOR JAMBS

Before you install your laminate of choice, you’ll first want to trim your existing door jamb to make room for your new floor. If you’re removing old flooring, the door jamb may already have enough clearance for your new laminate. If not, you’ll need an undercut saw to trim your door jamb neatly and accurately.

First, butt a piece of laminate against the bottom of the door jamb and draw a line where the top of the laminate meets the door jamb. This line will be your cut mark. Using the undercut saw and a scrap piece of laminate for backing, cut the door jamb and adjoining trim away. If your new flooring doesn’t come with pre-installed underlayment, make sure you take the underlayment thickness into account when measuring your cut.

For detailed instructions, read our guide on how to install laminate flooring around doors.


STEP 3 – HOW TO PLAN YOUR LAYOUT

  • Open the boxes and inspect the product. It may seem tedious, but it’s worthwhile to quickly inspect each board for defects like warping, chipping, or splitting
  • Using a saw, carefully cut the tongue side off the planks you’ll be using along your starter wall
  • Next, ensure your expansion gap spacers are in place along the starting wall, then begin laying the floorboards with the flat side snug against the spacers, and the grooved side facing the room
  • Lay your starter row from left to right

STEP 4 – HOW TO LAY THE FIRST TWO ROWS

Now, you’re ready to start laying the first two rows of your floor.

When installing your floorboards, you want to ensure you connect the planks in the ordered shown in the image below

Laying-Your-Floors

  • To connect Boards 1 and 2, use a slight angle to ease the tongue side of Board 2 into the groove side of Board 1 until they fit snuggly together like two puzzle pieces
  • Then, lay Board 2 flat to the subfloor until the boards are locked into place
  • Lay your boards from left to right

STEP 5 – HOW TO LAY THE REST OF THE FLOOR

  • Continue to lay your boards form left to right: repeat this process until your subfloor is covered
    • To ensure your floor remains stable, be sure to stagger the boards when laying your floor
      • You never want the seams in adjacent rows to be less than 6” apart (for added stability we recommend a 12” stagger between seams)
      • Maintain a minimum length for end boards (we suggest a minimum length of 8″)
  • To ensure a secure lock between boards, consider using a knock block to edge boards into place

PRO TIP: when placing a knock block against the edge of the board you’re fitting into place, ensure that it’s placed above the tongue, not against it or else it will be crushed


STEP 6 – HOW TO TRIM AND FIT THE EDGE PIECES

  • When you get to the end pieces, measure the distance between the second to last plank and your gap space, and mark your edge plank with pencil

PRO TIP: when cutting your floorboards to size, place the plank with the pattern or face side down then trim using a fine-toothed circular blade—we suggest using a miter or table saw.

  • To install these end pieces, we recommend using a pull bar for a tight fit

STEP 7 – HOW TO INSTALL YOUR LAST ROW

  • Measure the width needed for the last row and subtract the manufacturer’s expansion gap.
  • Measure to the board surfaces (excluding the tongue) and rip (cut lengthwise) the last boards along the groove edge.
  • Some flooring products have a small plastic tongue in the short side groove of the planks which helps lock the pieces together. Be sure to remove the plastic tongue before cutting the length of the board
  • Use a pull bar and hammer to lock the last row in place.

STEP 8 – HOW TO INSTALL LAMINATE FLOORING AROUND VENTS

  • Cut any underlayment or vapor barrier that covers the vent opening with a retractable knife
  • Loosely lay a plank over the vent, and note where the plank overlaps the opening
  • Take your pencil and mark these areas of plank directly onto the face of the floorboard

PRO TIP: It’s a good idea to mark your board about one centimetre wider than the vent to ensure the grate slips in easily.

  • Trim these boards with your saw accordingly, then install around the vent

STEP 9 – HOW TO INSTALL THRESHOLD AND TRANSITION PIECES

Measure and Mark Threshold Flooring Pieces

Once you trim the door jamb to the proper clearance, you’ll want to measure and mark the piece or pieces of laminate going through the threshold. If your flooring runs parallel with the door, you’ll likely have only one piece of laminate to trim.

Using a framing square, measure the depth of your door jamb by sliding the square under the newly cut gap until the tool hits the door frame or stud. Measure on the inner jamb as well as both sides of the door where the trim is located. Transfer these measurements to your laminate. If your laminate runs perpendicular to the door, you’ll have multiple pieces to measure and mark.

Cut the Laminate

Now that you have the exact measurements of your door jamb gap outlined, cut your laminate to fit nicely under the gap. Since you’re cutting a notch, you’ll want to use a jigsaw with a low-profile blade. A manual coping saw will also work if you’re not comfortable using the jigsaw.

Before you make any cuts, make sure the visible side or good side of the laminate is facing down. Coping saws, jigsaws, and even circular saws cut on the upstroke, so the cleanest side of the cut will remain on the visible side of the laminate when cutting face down.

Install the Notched Laminate

Now install the notched laminate planks in the doorway. Since most new laminate flooring uses a click-lock tongue-and-groove system, you’ll have to trim off the upper groove of the laminate plank that comes before the notched piece.

You can use a planer or a power sander to make your installation. Once you remove the joining plank’s groove, slide the notched piece under the trimmed door jamb and press the piece into place. Since you removed the adjoining groove, you’ll want to use a PVA Type 2 glue on this joint only.


STEP 10 – THE FINISHING TOUCHES

Now that your laminate flooring has been laid, it’s time to put the final touches on your project. Be sure to:

  • Take your spacers out from between the end floor boards and the wall
  • Trim any excess underlayment that curls up the wall
  • If you’re installing in a more humid climate or in a room that sees a significant amount of moisture, be sure to apply a silicone sealant in the expansion space around the perimeter of the floor
  • Attach the baseboards and shoe molding to the walls as needed do not attach them to the floors

And there you have it! You’ve successfully installed your laminate wood flooring using a floating method–and in just 10 easy to follow step!

What do you think? Do you have any trade secrets or tips on installing laminate floors via a floating method? Let us know in the comments section!
Article updated on September 18, 2019

(45) Comments

  1. I’m going to install wood laminate in two upstairs bedroom floors. Is a vapor barrier needed in these rooms. The bedrooms are over the lving room and kitchen.

  2. I want to put laminate floor in my bathroom, few tiles are cracked and don’t want to go through all the mess of replacing. will a laminate floor work for me on top of ceramic.

  3. thank you for info and video, 3 things, the transition strip portion could have used a bit more explanation on how its finished, is it nailed or does it snap in like flooring planks? 2nd, I’m no expert but I was taught to cut planks with the laminate/face down, and tell us what type of saw blade was used, .

  4. I have laminate flooring in my kitchen and 5 pieces got wet and the edges have raised a little bit. Is it possible to remove and replace the damaged boards?

  5. I’m going to build a house on the wet side of the big island of Hawaii and there will be no hvac installed and need to know if laminate flooring is ok. what grade of AC should be the minimum? If ok to install.

  6. I’m installing laminate flooring around a rounded ended flat rock way. How do I transition the round walk way to the round cuts I made to fit my laminate in?

  7. I puchased allen anRoth laminate flooring from Lowes and low and behold no instruction sheet now what doI do I live 100 miles from the store. thanks.

  8. We are installing laminate flooring in our basement over a concrete floor. We have a radiant heat system also. Do we still need to lay a vapor barrier under the laminate when we have radiant heat?

  9. Hi
    I am considering quotes for laminating approx 50sqm.
    I have 2 quotes from well established flooring firms. One is for floating method with edging strips at £3000 total cost.
    The other quote insists I need to stick down the laminate with the edges scribed into the skirting board. This will cost £5000.
    Both will use high quantity engineered wood costing about £30 persqm.

    I want a good job done but don’t want to waste money unnecessarily.
    The 2nd option sounds like the better job as it sounds permanent and won’t have those strips around the edge of the rooms.
    However most people seem to talk about floating floors.
    Which option is better?

    Thanks

    • Hi Bob,
      Great question. You definitely can install laminate on your stair, what you would do is glue the laminate flooring directly to the stair tread and the riser, no underlayment is required. You would finish the step by using the a Stair nose molding. Depending on the floor you may be able to find matching stair treads and risers also.

    • Hi Bob,

      You can definitely install laminate on steps. How you install will usually depend on the particular model you choose, and the manufacturer it is from. In all cases they are usually glued down directly.

      You would have to glue down one or more of the laminate floor boards on the tread of the step, and then place a stair nose trim on the nosing of each step. You would then glue the boards to the riser. Depending on your preference, you may also cut and install a quarter round molding at the inside corner where the tread meets the riser.

      Generally you want to get confirmation from a professional installer, but installing these on steps is pretty straightforward.

  10. Thanks for the video flooring.
    1. I have a question how much home depot charge instalation per sq ft.
    2. I am thinking about flooring
    If you can respond.
    Sincerely,

  11. I have a peel and stick vinyl floor 8 years old and in good condition, do I have to remove the vinyl, which is over a concrete slab? I have purchased your sound vapor barrier which I plan to use. Karen

  12. I will be installing the floor in a second floor unit condo. the current floor is carpet over concrete.
    if the concrete has imperfections can I use a 1/4 ” plywood underlayment to take of this? The plywood would be glued and screwed to the concrete I would then use a moisture barrier and foam underlayment

    • Hi Chris,
      You can definitely do what you are thinking of doing, however please keep in mind that your underlay will take care of any imperfections you have in your sub floor other that a levelness issue. If there floor has more that an 1/4″ variance over an 8ft length you will have issues down the road. You may want to attempt to level the concrete prior to installation that way you do not have to put the plywood down and can install over your existing concrete sub floor. Then all you would need to do is use a vapor barrier with your underlay.

  13. Great post! Laminate is definitely a product that will be around for many years. Its beauty as well as its durability is what makes it so perfect for so many people. Take your time when laying this type of flooring. Even when you think the job will take just a few days, it is necessary to take proper measurements as well as to get it just right. When you rush the project, you could cause unnecessary laminate flooring problems.

  14. We are installing laminate in 3rooms upstairs, all are separated by carpet. 2 rooms have north/south windows, including the biggest -master bedroom, the last one has an east window. Does it matter that 1room will have a floor that has a pattern perpendicular to the others, or does the “light rule-install the floor perpendicular to incoming light” take precedence over the direction of the pattern?

  15. Your information are very useful. You provide a step-by-step procedure on how to laminate flooring, how it works, and it’s importance. Thank you for sharing us good ideas. Keep on posting.

  16. I’m installing laminate flooring in my basement (on concrete floor ) which is approximately 42 feet long by 17 feet wide. A friend told me that I have to use some kind of a transition to split the length ( 42 feet ) in half. He told me that if I install laminate flooring in a room over 30 feet in length, eventually it will buckle in the middle. Is there any truth in that theory?
    Thank you in advance for any help you can supply me with.
    D.J. Bonello

  17. I want to use laminate flooring in the master bedroom. My husband is handicapped and I need to use a “Hoyer Lift” at times to move him in the bedroom. My husband has a hospital bed in the bedroom as well as a “Power” wheelchair. He also used the master bathroom off the master bedroom equipped with handicapped appliances. Is a Laminate floor conducive to his needs in the bedroom and what do you suggest for the master bathroom for flooring? Thank you in advance for your response.

  18. What is recommended when using in a basement floor, for the servicing of hot water heaters? What type of top padding is best used?

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