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How to Prepare Wood Sub-floor

Preparing wood subfloor

Wood sub-floors are a better surface for installation of wood flooring, and the only acceptable choice for a thick solid wood. Preparation of the sub-floor is crucial to successful installation; the foundation must be solid. There are three main areas of concern: structural integrity, a clean, flat and even surface, and moisture content. Here’s what you need to know to make sure your floor is problem-free has a long and beautiful life.

Structural Integrity

The quality of your floor depends a great deal on the integrity of your sub-floor. After the floor is swept, do a visual check of the surface. Countersink any nail or screw heads. If a screw or nail cannot be leveled and countersunk, replace it.

Walk the floor. Listen for squeaks and feel for areas that are spongy or feel hollow. This may indicate a weak spot in the concrete underneath, which should be addresses before proceeding. Screw or nail down any loose boards. Wood sub-floors should be screwed to the underlying floor joists at 6-inch intervals.

Note: The typical recommended thickness of the sub-floor is ¾”. Check the manufacturer recommendations and make sure that your sub-floor meets all requirements for thickness and width.

If there is a great deal of damage to the floor or it dies not meet the manufacturer standards, it’s probably best to call in a professional contractor and replace the entire sub-floor.

Flat and Even

The word “level” often comes up when discussing flooring, but it’s not entirely correct, because no level measures an 8 – 10 foot span. Specifications define that sub-floors should be within a tolerance of 3/16 of an inch over a span of 8 to 10 feet. What this means is that within any 8 –10 foot range, there should be no dips or humps that exceed 3/16 of an inch. To find uneven spots, lay out a flat 8 – 10 foot plank and mark trouble spots as you move it across the floor in all directions.

Minor hump problems can be (carefully) sanded down with a hand-held or rented orbital sander. Sanding throws up a lot of dust, so be sure to wear protective goggles and a dust mask.

Fill dips, low spots and gouges with a cementitious leveling compound, which may also be called floor patch. This is fairly simple; you mix it according to manufacturer instructions and patch the floor. When mixing the patch compound, add the water first and then the dry mix so you don’t get a thick clump in the bottom. Mixed floor patch should be about the consistency of pancake batter. To apply floor patch evenly, take the board you’re using as a straight edge and pour the amount of patch you think it will take to fill the gap, then pull the board back and forth over the area to spread the patch. One person should be on each end of the board to apply equal pressure. It may not look perfect, but as long as it’s even it should be fine. This is called screeding. Once the gaps are filled, let the screed dry completely; then check that it’s flat, and sand if necessary.

Note: If you’re going to be nailing or stapling the wood flooring, do not use large areas of floor patch. It will crack.

Moisture

Most wood sub-floors are installed over concrete slabs. Concrete is porous material that pulls moisture from the air and ground. This is the reason that solid wood floors should not be installed at or below grade, or sea level. There is always moisture in the air, but too much will soak into wood planks like water into a sponge, causing them to swell. This is normal, but too much moisture causes the boards to push beyond the small area allocated for movement, and the floor becomes pressurized as the boards crowd the space. Eventually, floorboards with too much moisture have nowhere to go but up, resulting in buckling and warping, which may be localized to a small area or ruin the entire surface of the floor.

Use a moisture test kit to be sure that both the concrete and the wood sub-floor meet the recommended moisture content specified by the manufacturer, usually no more than 4%.

Unless you are in an area of very low humidity, we recommend an underlayment with a moisture barrier, or 2-in-1 underlayment. Underlayment comes in rolls. Typically, you would roll out strips of underlayment to cover the entire floor and then join the edges of each row with a special tape. Check the manufacturer instructions for specifics. Ends can be left long and trimmed after the flooring is installed.

Once the preparations are done, you should clean the floor thoroughly, removing spatters of compound, dust, nails, or anything else that may cause problems under the floorboards. Wood flooring should be considered an investment. It improves the value of your home, and with proper care, can lend beauty and elegance for decades to come.

(9) Comments

  1. We are going to take up the old carpet in our bedroom and put down 3/4 prefinished oak hardwood. Throughout the house is plywood subfloor with particle over the top of that. My husband is insistent that we take up the particle board and replace it with plywood of the same dimension. There are no pet stains or other imperfections in the particle board and I don’t think it’s necessary to replace it. What are your thoughts?

    • BuildDirect Product Expert Team
      BuildDirect Product Expert Team - Reply

      Hi Linda,

      You cannot install hardwood over particle board, it will need to be 3/4″ plywood to ensure the floor stays stable. Please let us know if you have any other questions!

  2. We recently purchased a home where we discovered black mold underneath the carpet /sill of a window in my son’s room. It clearly was the cause of water getting in from the root system of a large tropical plant growing up underneath the stucco of the exterior of the house. We cleared that away but moisture is still getting in. We would really like to install hard wood floors rather than recarpet. My question is, how do we treat the moisture that has gotten in the concrete foundation under the window?

    • BuildDirect Product Expert Team
      BuildDirect Product Expert Team - Reply

      Hi Kelley,

      Thank you for getting in touch! Unfortunately I won’t be able to provide much help with your question. It is very important you treat and clean the concrete with the proper materials so it doesn’t come back or harm anyone. I highly suggest getting in touch with a certified mold expert to ensure it is removed completely. Please let us know if there is anything else we can help out with!

  3. I have bought a house that was built in the 1970, build well I think, flooding is solid my question is I want to put hard throughout 3/4, it has plank decking and 5/8 subflooring if put 3/4 hardwood on top of that I am afraid people will trip when they come in the door, do I need to take up the 5/8 sub flooring and put down say 1/4 inch plywood please advise thank you

    • BuildDirect Product Expert Team
      BuildDirect Product Expert Team - Reply

      Hi Ronnie,

      Thank you for getting in touch! I apologize but I am having a hard time understanding your question. I would suggest getting a contractor out to take a look at the area in person to ensure you are installing the flooring correctly. They would be able to give you much better advise as they can see everything in person. Please let us know if there is anything else we can help out with!

  4. We are going to put hardwood down in the living spaces and hall. We do have luon over a 3/4 ” plywood floor. I have a few questions.

    1. Can I use a heavy mill plastic to act as a vapor barrier?
    2 my husband thinks that just using a 15#felt is all we will need.
    3. Does hardwood need to be on padding. I saw a vapor barrier/padding how will that work?
    I want the added vapor barrier in plastic and the felt. Will those work together or should we go another way.
    4. I like the gunstocks/oak/utility/ 3 1/4. Can we mix it up with another more rustic board even a shade darker and/or lighter. I like that look.

    Thank you for your time.
    Regards,
    Erin

  5. what about the preparation for tongue and groove subfloor? I don’t see that talked about here, am I missing it? Tongue and groove subfloor post different problems than a plywood subfloor! How do we combat those problems. Plywood subfloor is straightforward. Screw every 6 inches.

  6. I purchased 850 sq. ft. of engineered Elmwood flooring from you about 9 months ago and have just now started the prep work to float the floor..
    I bought 1/4 inch thick cork as the underlayment in rolls.
    The floor will be installed over a plywood subfloor on the upper level of the home.
    What should be my first step in this installation? What is your feeling about the 1/4 inch cork underlayment?

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